Friday, October 8, 2010

Radio Flyer Wagon Car

ANCHORAGE, Alaska — A Valley couple took a childhood memory and turned it into a retirement project. Now, they have a Radio Flyer car to drive around town in.
Fred Keller and Judy Foster worked on the car for 11 months, and finished in August of this year, and their ride has been turning heads.

The base of the wagon is a 1976 Mazda pickup truck that Foster inherited from her dad.

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The vehicle turns heads everywhere they go.

"I think the words I hear the most often is 'awesome' or 'cool' or people go by and give us a 'hi' sign," Foster said.

The wheels are made from hub caps and detergent bottles, and the steering wheel is the actual wheel from a wagon. The handle rises eight feet high.

Custom-made Radio Flyer Car Fred Keller and Judy Foster's "retirement" project, isn't something you'd expect. The two built a car modeled after a Radio Flyer wagon, complete with handle and red buttons on the wheels. The car began as a 1976 Mazda Pickup truck, and the project began in the summer of 2009. They completed it in early August and have been turning heads everywhere they go.

1976 Mazda Pickup

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Austin-Healey


1965 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk III

Austin-Healey was a British sports car maker. The marque was established through a joint venture arrangement, set up in 1952 between Leonard Lord of the Austin division of the British Motor Corporation (BMC) and Donald Healey, a renowned automotive engineer and designer.

Austin-Healey produced cars until 1972 when the 20-year agreement between Healey and Austin came to an end. Donald Healey left the company in 1968 when British Motor Holdings (BMC had merged with Jaguar Cars in 1966 to form BMH) was merged into British Leyland. Healey joined Jensen Motors who had been making bodies for the "big Healeys" since their inception in 1952, and became their chairman in 1972.

Models Built

Austin-Healey 100

1953 - 1955 BN1 Austin-Healey 100
1955 Austin-Healey 100S (Extremely limited production of aluminium bodied race-prepared cars)
1955 - 1956 BN2 Austin-Healey 100M (Limited production high performance)
1956 - 1957 BN2 Austin-Healey 100
1956 - 1957 BN4 Austin-Healey 100-6 (2+2 seats)
1957 - 1959 BN4 Austin-Healey 100-6 Change to 1 3/4" SU Carbs (2+2 seats)
1958 - 1959 BN6 Austin-Healey 100-6 6 Cylinder motor (2 seat)

Austin-Healey 3000

1959 - 1961 BN7 Mark I (2 seat), BT7 Mark I (2+2 seats)
1961 - 1962 BN7 Mark II (2 seat), BT7 Mark II (2+2 seats), BJ7 Mark II (2 seat)
1962 - 1964 BJ7 Mark II (roll-up windows)
1964 - 1967 BJ8 Mark III

Austin-Healey Sprite


1960 Austin-Healey Sprite

1958 - 1960 AN5 Mark I 'Bugeye - US' 'Frogeye - UK'
After the Bugeye, the AH Sprite was a badge engineered twin to the MG Midget (hence the term 'Spridget'). The MG was aimed slightly upmarket.
1961 - 1964 AN6 - AN7 Mark II
1964 - 1966 AN8 Mark III (roll-up windows)
1966 - 1969 AN9 Mark IV
1969 - 1971 AN10 Mark V (UK Only)

Racing

The Big Healey was extensively raced in the United States and was recognized from the very beginning by the Sports Car Club of America / SCCA. Healey models raced in D,E, and F production classes, winning National Championships in both D and E Production.

In 1953, a special streamlined Austin-Healey set several land speed records at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah, USA.

Successors

The name Austin is now owned by Nanjing who bought the assets of MG Rover Group (British Leyland's successor company) out of bankruptcy in 2005. After Donald Healey sold his original business, Donald Healey Motor Company, the Healey brand was registered to a new firm, Healey Automobile Consultants, which the Healey family sold to HFI Automotive in 2005.

In June 2007, Nanjing and Healey Automobile Consultants / HFI Automotive signed a collaborative agreement that aims to recreate the Austin Healey and Healey marquees alongside NAC's MG. No timeline has been given as to when the Healey and Austin-Healey brands will return, although MG will be back on the market in China and the UK by the year's end.

Source: Wikipedia

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Looking Back: 1955 Studebaker E Series V-8


We stumbled across this classic 1955 Studebaker E Series V-8 half-ton pickup in Ann Arbor, Mich., on display at the Rolling Sculpture Car Show earlier this month. It's been meticulously restored by owner Ron Cripe.

Studebaker's E Series trucks were inaugurated in 1955. There was the 2E in 1956, 3E in 1957-58 and so on until the 8E models marked the last Studebaker pickups that were sold in 1964. Styling was a mix of carried-over sheet metal from the 1949-53 2R Series and 1954 3R Series.



According to Cripe, 1955 was also the first year an eight-cylinder engine option was available for Studebaker's lightest hauler. The180-horsepower, 259-cubic-inch (4.2-liter) V-8 was paired with a four-speed manual transmission. A six-cylinder was the standard engine.



Cripe's truck is optioned with a heavy-duty rear suspension, which features a remarkable 11 leaf springs in each spring pack. Today's Ford F-150 half-ton has only three leaf springs. Also noteworthy, the leaf springs are held in place below the rear live axle instead of resting above the axle, like today's trucks.

Source: Pickup Trucks.com

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Can Automatic Car Washes Damage Yor Car?


Automatic/drive-through car washes are more popular than ever because they save time and hassle.

But are automatic car washes safe for your car? In fact, in many instances, they are the "safest" course of action for many car owners who want to keep their car clean.

In fact, automatic car washes can be safer for your car's finish than washing your car yourself because do-it-yourselfers sometimes don't use enough water to safely remove dirt; or they wash the car in direct sunlight -- which can burn spots in the paint. Or they use the wrong type of soap -- such as dishwashing detergent, which removes protective wax and leaves a chalky residue on the finish. Or any one of several common mistakes can end up doing more harm than good.

Cars by the numbers:

3 Most Popular Muscle Cars6 Cheap Cars with Great Gas Mileage10 Fastest Sports CarsKeeping your car clean and the finish looking good can also mean higher resale value when it comes time to get a new car. All else being equal, a car with faded paint and a dingy overall look sells for 10-20 percent less than an otherwise identical vehicle that just looks nicer.

So how often should you have your vehicle washed? That depends on how quickly it gets dirty -- and how dirty it gets. For some cars, once a month or so is sufficient -- especially if the car is lightly used and kept in a garage. But some cars will need a bath more often -- especially those that are parked outdoors where they're exposed to bird droppings, tree sap and so on, or driven in areas with very long/severe winters, where the roads are salted when it snows.

Here are a few important things to keep in mind when it comes to automatic car washes:

Be sure it's "brushless" -- Some older car washes still use abrasive brushes (instead of cloth), which can leave small scratches in a car's finish. On older cars with so-called "single stage" paint jobs, light scratches could usually be buffed out; but all modern cars use a "base/clear" system with a thin, transparent layer of clear coat on top of the underlying color coat to provide the shine. Once the thin clear coat is damaged, often the only way to restore the shine is to repaint the damaged area.

Another safe bet is "touchless" car washes that use only high-pressure water jets and detergents to clean the car -- without physically touching it at all. There is virtually no chance of your vehicle suffering any cosmetic damage this way. Some areas have "self-service" coin-operated hand washes, which are great for spraying away heavy dirt buildup. You'll usually need to bring your own bucket, wash cloth/sponge and dry towels, though.

Watch out for the after-wash wipe-down -- Most drive-through washes use a strong jet of heated air to force excess water off after the car goes through the wash. Many full-service car washes will then have you drive the car (or drive it for you, in some cases) away from the wash area to be hand-wiped by attendants. This is usually OK -- provided the attendants are using fresh, clean (and soft) towels to do so. Be alert on busy days, when lots of other cars have gone ahead of you. If you see the attendants using obviously dirty old rags to wipe the car down, you should say "thanks, but no thanks" -- and drive away wet. Dirt and other abrasives in the rags can scratch the finish just like sandpaper. Simply driving away from the wash and letting air flow over the car to dry any remaining water won't hurt anything -- and is the best guarantee of a no-damage experience. Any lingering streaks can easily be cleaned up at home yourself using readily available spray cleaners designed for just this purpose. (Honda Pro Spray Cleaner & Polish is excellent for this; it also provides UV protection and easily and safely cleans off bugs, tar and road grime, etc. without water.)

Hold off on the extras -- A "works" car wash can cost twice as much as the basic wash, but you may not be getting twice the wash for your money. Undercarriage rustproofing, for example, is of dubious value. Effective rustproofing is applied to brand-new metal, in order to seal it from contact with external corrosives such as road salt. Most new cars are extensively rustproofed at the factory during the assembly process; further "treatment" is superfluous -- and a money-waster.

On the other hand, if the wash offers an undercarriage bath, it may be worth the additional cost. Jets of water sprayed directly underneath the car can break loose accumulated crud that would be difficult (and unpleasant) to try to remove yourself using a garden hose. It's also important that underbody drainage holes not be obstructed by mud and other buildup; accumulated moisture can accelerate rust or (in the case of the air conditioning system) lead to the formation of mold in the system. The undercarriage bath should help keep those drain holes clear.

Do, however, think twice about spray-on wax. This typically adds at least a couple bucks to the cost of the wash and while it doesn't hurt anything, it's no substitute for hand-applied polish/wax. Spray-on "wax" may provide a short-term gloss enhancement, but doesn't protect against UV sun damage the way hand-applied wax does. Ditto the cost of having an attendant spray Armor All (or a similar protectant) on your tires to make them shiny. The cost for this extra can be equivalent to the cost of buying an entire bottle of the stuff on your own.

Wheel and tire cleaning is an exception; the heavy-duty cleaners used by the car wash do a great job of removing baked-on brake dust, etc., that can otherwise be a real chore to clean on your own, using over-the-counter cleaners, a hand brush and a hose. It's especially important to keep aluminum alloy wheels clean; brake dust can eventually permanently stain them if it's not regularly cleaned away.

Finally:

Make sure your car's OK before you leave -- While many car washes will have a disclaimer posted that they are "not responsible for any damages that may occur" as a result of running your car through their wash, that doesn't mean you should automatically absolve them of any damage their equipment or personnel may have caused. If you notice something, ask to see the manager and point it out to him; whether "legally liable" or not, he may offer to fix the problem in the interest of customer relations. And even if he does not, you can still pursue the matter with a higher-up (such as the company headquarters, if the wash is a franchise, as many associated with big-name gas stations often are). If you have a cell phone with a camera, use it to take a photo of the damage in order to support your claim. And it ought to go without saying that you should never leave your purse or other valuables in the car if you use a wash where an attendant will have access to the vehicle's interior.

Source: Autos.aol

Monday, June 28, 2010

Classic Oldsmobiles


1968 Oldsmoblie 98 Convertible


1969 Oldsmobile 4-4-2

Click on image to view larger image

1946 Oldsmobile Series 76 club sedan


1950 Oldsmobile 98 Futuramic four-door sedan


1955 Oldsmobile 98 Holiday 2-door hardtop


1962 Oldsmobile Convertible


Oldsmobile 1959 Super 88


1957 Oldsmobile Convertible

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Classic Cars



Classic cars by definition from the Classic Car Club of America are cars that were built from 1919 to 1948. They focus on these first cars ever built. Cars that don't fall in this range are called antique cars, although some people like to interchange the terminology. These cars were typically the creme de la creme, or cream of the crop cars. They were expensive when they first came out, and were made in very limited quantities. Some cars may not fit that bill, but they also can be the first to use a specific development of technology. For example, a car that first used power brakes can be considered a classic car. These are the true classics that people think of. An example that many people may have heard of would be a Rolls Royce. There are many other definitions to classic cars, as it is truly up to the person deciding if it is a classic or not. There are modern classics that are usually at least 15 to 25 years old. For insurance purposes, states give their own definition. For example, Pennsylvania law says that the car must be at least 15 years old and also conform to the original specifications that the manufacturer stated. It truly varies with whoever you speak with. Due to this confusion, the more information you can get regarding classic cars the better. The CarsDirect website is a great source of articles on general classic car information, as well as specific information on certain makes and models.

Classic car value is a very delicate subject. If you are the owner of a car that is in less than mint condition, it is very possible to improve its value, however you should be very careful. While proper restoration is a very difficult and time consuming process, decreasing the value of a classic car is very easy and is often done without the owner even realizing it.

Numbers Matching Cars

The most valuable classic cars are those that are not only in flawless condition, but more importantly are equipped with all of their original factory parts. Numbers matching refers to a car in which all major parts including the engine, transmission, and rear axle, and in some cases even the alternator, carburetor, distributor, water pump and cylinder heads all match the original parts numbers listed for the car. Should you need to replace or repair any of the major parts of your classic car, trying to replace them with parts from the same type of car, year and model will help preserve as much value as possible.

New Parts versus New Old Stock

While the difference between newly manufactured parts may be hard to notice simply looking at them, their impact on a classic car’s value can be enormous. While newer, more recent parts may function more efficiently as well as boast superior durability, using them on a classic car can be catastrophic to its value. In order to maximize the value of your classic car, try and use new old stock parts, or parts that were manufactured during the same time period as the car yet have never been used. If you are unable to locate them for the parts you need, you may want to consider looking for a parts car, or a car of the same year and model as yours that is in poor condition. While these cars may be nearly worthless themselves, the parts you may be able to salvage from them can help improve the value of yours by a great deal.

Body Repair

One of the best ways to improve the value of your classic car is by restoring the body. Repairing dents, and other forms of body damage as well as rejuvenating tired paint with a fresh coat of any of the factory colors of paint the car was available in originally can lead to large increases in value.

Keep Detailed Maintenance Records

Not only do well kept, detailed records help prove the great condition of your classic car as well as the work put into restoration, they can explain any parts that don’t have matching parts numbers, as well as give a window into the life and potential future of your car. People like to know the histories of the cars they buy, and having a detailed record might be enough to coax a few more dollars from a potential buyer.

While customization can make a car more suited to your tastes, it can be devastating to the value of a classic car. For maximum value, always try and keep your car as close to original specifications as possible, using as many original parts as possible.

Source: CarsDirect

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Oldsmobile Concepts


Oldsmobile O4


Oldsmobile Recon


Oldsmobile Toronado XSR


Oldsmobile F88 III


Oldsmobile Fiesta Carousel


Oldsmobile F88 II


Oldsmobile 88 Delta


Oldsmobile Cutlass Concept


Oldsmobile F88


Oldsmobile Starfire Concept


Oldsmobile Golden Rocket